Don't Throw Away Scallop Eggs: Convert Them To a Premium Butter – Guide
Beyond the stunning shores and wild shoreline, this island has a remarkable food culture, deeply grounded in its soil and sea. From world-famous Jersey Royal new potatoes to shellfish more succulent and softer than any found elsewhere, Jersey's harvest is unsurpassed. The thing that excites many most, though, is the way island producers and growers are embracing regenerative farming, and in doing so reinventing their food future with creativity and care.
Last month, I was fortunate to lead a discussion at an inspiring event, and cook a welcome meal for the participants, alongside a motivating organizer. Of course, scallops were a must on the spread, since they're Jersey at their best: delicate, plump and singing of the ocean.
Scallops seem to me the ultimate symbol of the island's food future: sweet, full and restorative by nature, purifying and refreshing the sea while contributing to create shoreline habitats. Whether cultivated and, importantly, diver-caught, they are among the eco-friendliest seafood options to eat. Yet many, those grew up on the island, don't eat the roes – a common affliction, I fear. Even more justification to champion these rosy tidbits, that are much too delicious to throw out. Whipped into butter, they become pure luxury: melt over scallops, mix into risotto or just spread on toasted slices.
Scallops can be a bit expensive, however, so I've created this method to turn a single shellfish into a stunning starter (or three into a satisfying entree) and, by blending their roe into smoky spice spread and roasting them in the half-shells with small tomatoes and garlic, unused parts becomes a delicacy.
That same spirit of reinvention is at the heart of the movement, which introduced an award offering funding to food pioneers with brand support, guidance and access to a marketplace. Evaluated by a panel of respected food heroes, the award will be awarded at an forthcoming conference. This is focused on supporting ideas that will help the agricultural networks thrive, across the board, and I can't think of an inspiring location for that conversation to start than Jersey.
Scallops Roasted in Roe Butter with Cherry Tomatoes and Crushed Garlic
Serves six as a starter or two as a main
6 roe-on shellfish in the half-shell
18 small tomatoes, halved
Six garlic cloves, crushed
3 fresh red chillies (such as jalapeño), split lengthwise, or 1 dash red pepper flakes, or to taste (if desired)
50g butter
1 tsp paprika
Sea salt and pepper, to liking
Lemon wedges, to accompany
Some sea asparagus, saltwort or six tiny gherkin slices, to garnish (if using)
Prepare the scallops, removing the eggs from every and leaving the rest of the shellfish attached to the shell (ask the fishmonger to handle this for you, if need be). Put six cherry tomato halves in every half-shell with a clove's worth of crushed garlic and half a chili pepper, if using.
Transfer the scallop roes in a container of a hand blender (many prefer it's the best method for blending tiny quantities), include the spread and spice, and blitz smooth. Divide the butter among the half-shells, making sure every shellfish is well covered in the spread.
Heat the grill until it's very hot, then put the shellfish under the flame for 6-8 minutes, until blistered and bubbling. Serve immediately, topped with if desired samphire, herbs, a slice of gherkin and/or a splash of the gherkin brine or a bit of lemon juice.